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You can save yourself a good bit of money if you have everything cut out and ground down clean when you take the chassis up to them. The actual work of replacing the cross member isn't difficult, but going through and getting the old cross member out as well as the old strut tube cross member out takes some time.
Another factor you have to keep in mind is that they are WFO with production on this new car (meaning jig time is at a premium). I believe we saved a couple hundred bucks by cutting everything out so that when we took the car up they just had to put it on the jig and weld it up.
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Originally Posted by phenom08
Spindles are gonna be closer to $400 you have to change both sides can't mix them
Got some 8 races old for $250.00 delivered, so from where I am it's $250.00 vs $1,500.00 .. almost a no-brainer, esp. given that I'm about as casual a racer as they come
Last edited by RacerX10; 12-20-2015 at 04:07 PM.
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RF
Originally Posted by RacerX10
Got some 8 races old for $250.00 delivered, so from where I am it's $250.00 vs $1,500.00 .. almost a no-brainer, esp. given that I'm about as casual a racer as they come
I don't want to offend, but if you do not get the same result, then you have wasted that $250.00 + and you are putting used stuff on your car, albeit only a couple races old.
I believe you will probably find that, the spindle change will reer another problem, like the increased ride height on the front of the car will not allow the car to get on the RF as easy as before. and the car will more than likely not steer as well.
If the spindles worked so good, then why did Rocket raise the cross member, instead of pumping out a bunch of ride height raising spindles for the fix.
just my observation.
I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.
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We are around $500 to put your car in the jig an put flat crossmember in any car 2007 or newer that don't have it...it's never done in the floor or on a fork lift always on the jig.
Mike Nuchols @Warrior Race Cars
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Originally Posted by JustAddDirt
I don't want to offend, but if you do not get the same result
No offense taken, but I had to stop you right there.
What if I do get the same result ? Reputable people here have said that raising the front end 1/2" isn't going to make any handling difference based on experience they have. Your argument goes both ways ... if simply bolting on a new set of spindles doesn't do any good, why does rocket even make them ?
In a conversation with Rocket's tech support people, they indicated that it's entirely possible that I may never even have an issue with the cross member dragging the ground. He said it depends entirely on the sort of track you run at.
Thanks for your comments either way
Last edited by RacerX10; 12-21-2015 at 01:39 PM.
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Where are you gonna be racing at? I can tell you after we went to the drop spindles it fixed the cross member hitting on flatter tracks, but still buried if we ran anywhere heavy or high banked.
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Originally Posted by phenom08
Where are you gonna be racing at? I can tell you after we went to the drop spindles it fixed the cross member hitting on flatter tracks, but still buried if we ran anywhere heavy or high banked.
Thanks for that info. I'll be running mostly withing 4-5 hours of central Arkansas. There aren't any tracks I would consider high-banked in this area.
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Originally Posted by phenom08
Where are you gonna be racing at? I can tell you after we went to the drop spindles it fixed the cross member hitting on flatter tracks, but still buried if we ran anywhere heavy or high banked.
Thought of another question .. how soft were you running on the RF when it was dragging with the drop spindles on ?
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325-350 with a 1/2' bump stop to try and help it from bottoming out
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Rocket quoted me $800 for crossmember and $1200 for rear clip. That was 2 weeks ago.
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Originally Posted by DK1
Rocket quoted me $800 for crossmember and $1200 for rear clip. That was 2 weeks ago.
I'd probably do that if Rocket Chassis Inc wasn't a 2,000 mile round trip for me
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Originally Posted by phenom08
325-350 with a 1/2' bump stop to try and help it from bottoming out
good to know .. thanks !
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we had guys bottoming out, they started running 29" rr tires on the front instead of drop spindles. had to raise the rear frame heights also, the rocket I was running still bottomed out even with the cross member ,with soft spring on the rf something is gonna hit, blew out three berlin rf shocks also, believe you should keep enough rf spring to stop it and soften or stiffen lf to tighten or loosen.
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Originally Posted by phenom08
325-350 with a 1/2' bump stop to try and help it from bottoming out
Seems like the bump stops that most guys are running are 2+ inches tall .. was your bump stop there only to keep it from bottoming ?
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Yea that's all it was for
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Originally Posted by phenom08
Yea that's all it was for
Ah ok .. thanks for your reply !
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Raising ur front end even .5 inch takes steering ability away bad
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